GERİ 1,093

Appendix 2: Detail of installation on two ropes with two ascenders

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

1. Descender : + backup ascender + footloop.

2. Climber who is focused and conscious that he/she is alone.

3. Primary rope: Ø > 10 mm dynamic (EN 892) or low stretch kernmantel (EN 1891).

4. Two point anchor, in the route's fall line, positioned to minimize rub points.

5. Solid anchor.

6. Beware of rockfall during access.

7. Access rope with intermediate anchor.

8. Clear space in front of the climber: no clothing hiding the ascender, no pack cord or strap that can interfere with the system's operation.

9. Self-belay system with two ascenders.

10. A light suspended weight to help the ascenders slide.

Installing the secondary ascender: RESCUCENDER only!

If primary ascender fails, there is a possibility of a factor 2 fall onto the backup ascender (twice the length of the extension). This type of fall is prohibited with a frame-loaded ascender, used without an energy absorber (ASCENSION, BASIC, MINI TRAXION...), because the rope's sheath will be damaged or torn by the cam's teeth. Petzl therefore recommends using a cam-loaded ascender: the RESCUCENDER.

Note: attention, in case of a fall, do not try to grab the RESCUCENDER. There is a risk of poor locking if the user grabs the RESCUCENDER frame (normal locking if the user grabs the sling or connector).

Fall tests (height = twice the length of the extension), close to the knot, 80 kg dummy

Backup ascender Extension Impact force Effect on the rope
RESCUCENDER GO + EXPRESS 17 cm + OK 4.8 kN
ASCENSION GO + NITRO absorber + OK 4 kN
ASCENSION GO + EXPRESS 17 cm + OK 4.7 kN

185 cm of sheath torn

Notes:

  • Always carry a descender (GRIGRI) and a footloop/ascender combo (TIBLOC + ANNEAU) to ascend the rope in case of failure to complete the climb.
  • The two ascenders must not be connected to the same point on the harness: they can collide and be damaged during a fall.
  • Roofs and traverses complicate the system: they require numerous directional points and additional precautions. Do another risk analysis for these particular cases.

https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Appendix-2--Detail-of-installation-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders?ActivityName=Multi-pitch-climbing
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