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Warnings
The GRIGRI must be detached and re-attached each time the rope is installed, on every pitch of the climb. The large number of manipulations during the day increases the risk of error. When the rope is taut, the carabiner and the device are held in position by the tension. But when the rope is slack, the device and its carabiner can move about and become poorly positioned. The belay/rappel system's carabiner is frequently used alone, with no possibility for redundancy. If the carabiner opens or breaks, the user will certainly fall.
The most important risks to consider
Speed of use and auto-locking.
Reliability in dirty environments (mud, sand...).
Speed of use, shape helps resist rotation.
Triple action auto-locking.
The D shape helps resist carabiner rotation. There is only one device to attach, so a wide opening and high capacity are not necessary.
TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. It can be used in this case, because the rope does not run through the carabiner (which could rub against the locking sleeve).
BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking.
The shape of the FREINO helps resist rotation and bad positioning. It also offers an extra-friction solution for controlling the descent of a heavy user.
• Do a partner check at each connection
• Regularly monitor your belay device and the positioning of the carabiner during use, especially when it is reloaded after having been unloaded
• Verify that the SCREW-LOCK sleeve is properly locked at each connection (red indicator not visible)
• With an auto-locking carabiner, check at each opening and closing that the sleeve is completely locked
Notes Beware of pear-shaped carabiners, which in this application have a tendency to rotate and often become poorly positioned.