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The tests presented above were designed to help us evaluate falls involving real people. For comparison, we redid the same series of falls based on the standard model: rigid mass with a GRIGRI 2 fixed to the anchor.
Warnings
Factor 0.3
Factor 0.7
These tests revealed very significant differences between the two protocols: the force on the climber increases by up to 70% with a rigid mass. These differences are explained by the many factors, other than the rope, that contribute to fall energy dissipation: the absorption of the two bodies, belayer displacement, rope slippage in the device...
These tests help us evaluate falls involving real people.
Such measurements necessarily carry a high degree of uncertainty, but help provide important information: